electric guitar string sizes Price Sale Research electric guitar string sizes , prices, suppliers, and buying advice.
Saturday, December 31, 2011
DR HANDMADE STRINGS RDE-9 RED DEVILS LITE 9-42 EXTRA LIFE ELECTRIC GUITAR STRINGS
Sunday, December 25, 2011
My new '07 Taylor SolidBody Classic electric guitar!
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Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Fender Telecaster: Electric Guitar Setup : How to String a Fender Telecaster Guitar
Friday, December 16, 2011
How To Put New Strings On An Electric Guitar (Solid Body)
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Sunday, December 11, 2011
Schecter Damien 6-String Full-Size Electric Guitar - Satin Black
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
Dean Playmate EVO Junior Solid Body Electric Guitar, Classic Black, 3/4-Size
!±8± Dean Playmate EVO Junior Solid Body Electric Guitar, Classic Black, 3/4-Size
Post Date : Dec 08, 2011 00:59:56 | Usually ships in 24 hours
Dean Playmate EVO Junior is the Perfect Electric Guitar Starter
The Playmate EVO Junior electric guitar is an incredible electric guitar for a beginner, child, or traveler. This three-fourth sized electric guitar features traditional construction with a set maple neck, rosewood fingerboard and chrome hardware. As small as this guitar is, it's no slouch when it comes to sound or construction. Take it on the road or play it at home, the Playmate EVO Junior electric guitar won't let you down.
Designed for the beginner, fun for the experienced player |
Solid Body and Features
Featuring a laminated basswood body and a solid maple top for a superior blend of rich tones, this guitar also has a maple neck with a rosewood fretboard—complete with 22 frets even at the 25.5-inch scale. The Playmate EVO Junior also comes with dot inlays, die-cast tuners, bolt on construction, two humbucker pickups and a tune-a-matic bridge. This is a six-string guitar that uses nylon strings. The Playmate EVO Junior electric guitar comes in classic black with a high gloss finish.
Perfect for the Beginner
The perfect instrument for the beginning rocker, the Playmate EVO Junior electric guitar is a 3/4-size electric guitar with a fast bolt-on maple neck and a rosewood fingerboard. Dual humbucking pickups offer a full range of tones and sealed tuners keep your tuning stable. All hardware is chrome. It is as handsome as it sounds. It will attract your beginner with its looks, cool curves and awesome sound. Never fear a lack of interest. Your beginner will make real music together with the Playmate EVO Junior electric guitar.
Ideal for Travel
The Playmate EVO Junior electric guitar is ideal for travel, whether it is just next door for a barbeque, down the street to a local function or across the country. With the right case (sold separately), there isn't anywhere you can go. The Playmate EVO Junior electric guitar is small enough to fit into overhead bins or next to you on the tour bus.
About Dean Guitars
Dean Guitars is dedicated to bringing the customer quality-crafted instruments designed for their playing comfort and enjoyment. Dean Guitars guarantees every Dean guitar and include a written warranty with each instrument. Customer satisfaction is their top priority, and they want to hear from you, the customer, if you need assistance with warranty or repair service.
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Saturday, December 3, 2011
DBZ Guitars Barchetta ST 6-String Full-Size Electric Guitar - Black
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Violin Equipment Review - First Frets
Now here is a brilliant invention for learning to play violin. A decal that peels off a backing and is applied to the violin as one piece beginning at the nut as a finger marker for first position. First Frets are made of clear, one-piece, self-adhering vinyl that lays flat on the fingerboard with no tapes. Four differently-colored and mathematically accurate stripes indicate the correct placement of each of the four fingers in first position. No more tapes that slip, stick, and, peel off! Thus, as First Frets present such a welcome alternative to cutting, measuring, and sizing individual tapes that may interfere with the left hand and also cause unwanted buzzing, I have been using them for about two years for violins sized 1/10 through 4/4, and I prefer them to tapes.
First Frets usually work quite well when students are playing on violins that have been set up well. However, on occasion, I have noticed buzzing if the action is set too low and the strings are very close to the fingerboard. This is because, when you stick a decal under the strings against the nut, this reduces the space between the fingerboard and the strings and thus the decal rubs against the vibrating strings during playing. However, this problem can be fixed if the violin's setup is adjusted for higher action. This can be accomplished either by having a violin shop "plane" (cut down) the fingerboard, or raise the nut.
Another issue is that, depending on string lengths, the lines may not be exactly accurate in their positioning on the instrument. Again, this depends on setup and each violin is slightly different. One way to address this issue is to move the bridge so that the string length matches the spacing of the First Frets.
Sliding the First Fret decal under the strings without having it stick to the fingerboard in the wrong place somewhere along the way is easier than expected, and can be accomplished by violin teachers and students alike, if instructions are properly followed. However, teachers and violin shops that are experienced with installation usually find them easy to install. Also, the strings need to be loosened to some degree in order to apply the decal. Thus, care must be taken to prevent loosening of the strings to such a degree that the bridge falls down.
From my experience, as soon as a student is able to play in tune reasonably well, these decals can be removed.
Though certain issues must occasionally be addressed, First Frets do work well for the majority of students and violins. And, unlike tapes, they do not slide on the instrument, nor do they peel off and leave a sticky residue, or make the fingerboard feel bumpy and uneven. Thus, they are a vast improvement over ordinary tapes and, in my opinion, are worth a try, especially given that they are quite inexpensive to buy.
Sunday, November 27, 2011
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Thursday, November 24, 2011
Schecter Damien 7-String Full-Size Electric Guitar - Satin Black
Monday, November 21, 2011
How to Choose an Electric Guitar - Shape, Wood & Hardware
First some history: the electric guitar first appeared in the 1930s out of a need to solve some of the problems that blues and jazz guitarists were having at the time. Guitarists were often part of big bands and other large ensembles often containing drums, piano, brass, and even strings, so it was, of course, quite difficult for them to make themselves heard, and, often, even to hear themselves! They were, therefore, looking for a way to play louder and that's how the idea of the amplifier came along, thanks also to the progress made in pickups. It was Rickenbacker that made the first electric guitar prototypes, which used tungsten pickups. They were on the right track, but feedback was still a major issue due to the fact that all guitars were hollow bodied at the time.
It was in the 40s that Les Paul, working at the time with Epiphone guitars, came up with the idea of building a guitar that didn't have a sound chamber, so as to avoid feedback issues: The solid body was born! It was a radical departure from traditional hollow body guitars, but henceforth the electric guitar was now a feasible idea. It was through the work of Leo Fender that the electric guitar really came into its own. In 1950, Leo put his finishing touches on the Telecaster followed in 1954 by the Stratocaster model. Meantime, Gibson came out with its famous Les Paul model. In just 4 years the major principles of electric guitar building were established; principles that are still used to this day.
Choosing the shape of your electric guitar
In general the choice of shapes and finishes for an electric guitar are much larger than for acoustic guitars. In the last 60 years, manufacturers have experimented with just about all possible shapes and sizes, so its basically down to the player's personal taste. There are, however, certain classic shapes (like the Fender Stratocaster and the Gibson Les Paul) and their countless spin offs and variants. Putting taste aside, what really makes the difference between electric guitars is what they are made of and whether they be solid or hollow.
Solid Body Guitars
Solid body guitars are just that: solid body. They are the modern version of the electric guitar and by far the most common. The absence of a sound chamber enables these guitars to resist feedback quite efficiently while allowing the builder total freedom when designing its shape. But you must always keep in mind how a specific shape will feel while being played in different situations: a Gibson Flying V, for instance, isn't the easiest guitar to play sitting down, which is not the case with a Les Paul: just something you should to think about...
Hollow Bodies Guitars
This category consists for the most part of jazz and retro-looking guitars, and are usually grouped into either hollow or semi-hollow. The thinner they are, the less acoustic sound they produce, and therefore the less likely they are to feedback. One must also keep in mind that a guitar can have a hollow/ semi-hollow body without there being any visible holes in the sound board (BB King's famous Gibson Lucille guitar is a prime example). Semi-Hollow guitars have a solid center block, that runs the length and depth of the body, which stabilizes the soundboard, making the guitar less prone to feedback (a consistent problem plaguing all hollow body guitars).
Electric guitars with chambered bodies / sound boxes
Some electric guitars have one or more chambers (sound boxes) carved into the body, which can be visible or not from the outside. There are, of course, a thousand subjective opinions about how these chambers effect the sound of an otherwise solid body guitar which can range from "woodier" to "more airy", but, ultimately, one must forge their own opinion.
Choice of wood
As with acoustic guitars, solid wood is the best way to go since it has superior resonance and ages much better, but also of course more expensive.
Wood for the Body
Contrary to what some novices might say, the body of the guitar has a fundamental effect on its sound. In fact, (to simplify) the pickups only amplify the vibration of the strings, and this vibration depends largely on the resonance of the string-body-neck-hardware ensemble. As a general rule, the heavier the wood, the more it sustains, but the sound will be less bright.
Mahogany
This heavy wood assures ample sustain and a warm tone. On the other hand, the signal will have the tendency to be less bright, especially when using distortion.
Typical Examples: Gibson LP, Gibson SG, Lag Roxanne. For entry-level guitars, mahogany is replaced by less expensive varieties.
Alder
This wood has a density and response similar to mahogany, but less warm and slightly brighter. It provides well balanced response across the sonic spectrum, and though not very dense it provides resonant tone with excellent sustain. It therefore comes as no surprise that fender uses alder for its famous Stratocaster model.
Typical Examples: Fender Stratocaster, Fender Telecaster.
Maple
Existing in many varieties (curly, birdseye, fiddle back...) and different prices, this hard wood (with a density of 540 to 700 kg/m3 ) tends have a bright and penetrating sound . It is often used for soundboards which are in turn placed on mahogany bodies to give the sound of the guitar more brilliance and brightness as, for instance, on the Gibson Les Paul.
Typical Examples: Gibson LP, Lag Roxanne Prestige
Ash
This wood is heavier than Alder (density of 580 to 690kg/m3 ), and is favored for giving ample sustain and having a bright and penetrating sound. It is therefore often used for the body of the guitar. Swamp ash, a variety of ash, gives us the best of both worlds: great sustain , and it's very light owing to its very big open pores. Of course it's more expensive.
Typical examples: Fender Telecaster, Yamaha signature Mike Stern.
Wood for Necks and Fingerboards/Fretboards
As for acoustic guitars, there are two main woods for guitar necks. Mahogany necks (rounder and more mediums), Maple necks (brighter). For the fingerboard/fretboard, a dense and hard wood is favored. The choices are the same as for acoustic guitars.
Ebony : a very dark and hard wood that can be found on high-level guitars. This very dense wood (1000 to 1200 kg/m3) gives precise intonation and reinforces the neck's rigidity. Rosewood : a rather hard wood(850 kg/m3) that gives a softer, less bright sound, but ideal for certain styles (blues, etc...). Brazilian Rosewood has become a scarce commodity and therefore is quite expensive, so indian rosewood is now often used in its place. Brazilian rosewood has the reputation of having more clarity in lows and a bell-like tone in the trebles. Maple : This wood has a drier sound than either rosewood or ebony and is mainly found on maple necks. On certain maple necks, there isn't even a fingerboard.
Hardware Choices
Machine Heads
There's no question: sealed enclosures with permanent lubrication are best. They insure simple and precise tuning..
Bridges and Tremolos/Vibratos
Bridges can be fixed (hard tail), like on a Gibson Les Paul or Fender Telecaster, but they can also be part of a tremolo/vibrato setup (a lever attached to the bridge which can temporarily slacken the strings and thereby change the pitch).
Bigsby tremolos, which date from the 40s, change the pitch around 1 to 2 half-steps. They can be found on Gretsch and Gibson hollow bodied guitars, amongst others, and are the vibrato of choice for many Country, Rockabilly, and Rock'n'roll players. If matched with a good bridge that's correctly calibrated, it will usually stay in tune.
A Fender (synchronized) tremolo is partly built under the bridge and offers a greater pitch change thanks to a bevel carved into the body allowing for more leverage. The problem with this type of vibrato is that the guitar has a tendency to go out of tune.
The Floyd Rose tremolo( or locking tremolo) , popularized by Eddie Van Halen through such works as Eruption, evolved out of the Fender tremolo. The idea was to make a tremolo that would allow guitarists to drastically change the pitch of the strings without having tuning problems. In order to achieve this, it uses two string blocking devices, one at the bridge and the other at the nut. While this setup works very well, it is nonetheless quite awkward for changing strings, so beginners should be advised.
Pickups
There are so many different types of pickups that it is difficult to get a comprehensive overview. We'll focus on the two types most often found on guitars:
Single coil: Historically, they were the first pickups invented for guitar. Though very sensitive to electrostatic noises, these pickups have nevertheless played a crucial role in the history of rock-n-roll, funk and soul. They have a sound range that goes from a dark and fat midrange found in P-90s to the bright and clear Fender Stratocaster sound. Thus, there is a distinction made between standard single-coil pickups and P-90 type single-coils, which are warmer and more powerful (Typical Examples : Fender Telecaster, Fender Stratocaster, Gibson LP Junior). Humbuckers (Dual coil): Invented in order to reduce noise(hum), they offer more power and roundness. For all types of modern music (jazz, rock, hard-rock, metal...). Humbuckers can be split ( Only one of the two coils is used to give a single-coil sound) on some guitars. Typical Examples: Gibson SG, Gibson LP...
Humbuckers can be split. In this case, only one of the two coils is used, in order to get a sound very similar to a single coil.
Note that pickups can be paired, in series or parallel, in phase or out of phase, depending on the guitar's built in circuitry. Thus one can create additional sound combinations and possibilities.
In recent years, bridges that feature piezo-electric pickups (those found on acoustic-electric guitars) have become more common. These can be combined with the standard pickups on the guitar.
Other Stuff
A final note: the presence of a truss-rod is indispensable for the fine tuning of your instrument, such as when changing the string gauge.
Friday, November 18, 2011
Artist Management Tips - How to Get the Attention of a Booking Agent
Before you busy yourself with the details of how to get the attention of a booking agent, it is best to take a step back and know what gets their attention in the first place. In other words, "get inside their heads" first.
Following are some important things to consider in your bid to get the attention of a booking agent.
As maddening and contradictory it sounds, a booking agent is most impressed and interested in a band/artist that is self-sustaining on the touring front. Being self-sustaining is having the ability to provide for your own (booking) needs without the help of others (e.g. agents). It doesn't mean that you don't WANT the help; it just means that you can survive without the help. In your quest to become self-sustaining, consider venues other than clubs - for example, performing arts centers, college campuses, festivals, house concerts, etc. - to string together a regional tour of 40 - 50 dates over a 6 - 9 month period or so. This not only makes you look self-sustaining; it actually allows you to be self-sustaining.
Develop a tour history for your artist in their home town and region (surrounding states) that includes the venues played, dates performed, venue capacity, attendance numbers, ticket price/cover charge, number of bands on the bill, headlining vs. opening status of your artist, etc. Gather this data for every gig your artist performs over the course of a few months. Condense the data into a presentable form that can be easily read by a booking agent. It's important to make sure this data is accurate since it will be checked.
Put together a team around your artist. This team will include you (the manager), a label (even a solid indie label with 'real' distribution will do), a reputable entertainment attorney, and an effective publicist. This team will be a good indication to the agent of the level of promotion and marketing that will be in effect during the booking process. With labels reducing their tour support budgets, having a sponsor on board providing cash and/or in-kind support will work wonders to convince the agent that adequate resources will be allocated to promotional activities.
A Video/DVD is an essential visual representation of how your artist performs live. You must be able to match your impressive data (show attendance numbers, revenue generated, etc.) with stunning visuals of your artist's show. The DVD (or YouTube video) must also illustrate how passionate the fans are during the shows. The fact that you can show footage of fans at several different shows will be even more impressive (since anyone can pack a venue full of family members at least ONCE).
Get the attention of a few artists already represented by booking agents. Referrals from existing bands make for a powerful endorsement in the eyes of booking agents. Find bands that are of a similar sound to that of your artist(s), and then make efforts to befriend them and develop a relationship that can later be leveraged to introduce your artist to the booking agent.
If you don't already have a solid team in place, shop your artist to a label that has a roster of artists that are represented by reputable booking agents. These labels will already have the ear of the booking agents and direct access through the front door. The labels will also be able to provide the booking agent with all the relevant information necessary for the agent to make an informed decision.
As often as possible, encourage mid-large size capacity venues to add your artist's information to their web site. This is most important if your artists are headlining, since booking agents browse venue websites to see which bands are headlining. The agents then use this information to chase down 'first holds' before other agents can do so.
These, while not exhaustive, are some important things for you to take into account before approaching a booking agent. Keep in mind that if you do these things correctly, an agent will approach you first. If you haven't already done most of the things mentioned above, you should think of doing them as part of a medium-term (6 - 9 months) goal as opposed to a short-term (3 - 6 months) goal.
Monday, November 7, 2011
Understanding The Basic Guitar Types
If you are inexperienced, one guitar is the same as any other. Of course, there is the obvious difference between an acoustic guitar and an electric one. But, aside from this main characteristic there are many important differences in guitars. The importance of these variations are determined by the style of music to be played. For example, country musicians will use a different type of guitar than a classical musician or even a rock guitarist. And jazz players will use a different style of guitar than either of the three above. Another important distinction of electric guitars is that some have a hollow body and some have a solid body. Each type of body delivers its own unique sound.
Acoustic Guitar Body Styles
Classical guitars have a very wide fingerboard and use nylon strings and, since a pick isn't used on a classical guitar, it doesn't have a pick guard. Usually, the classical guitar rests on the left knee with the neck angled up. It is not necessary to play them this way but that is the traditional position. The wide fingerboard makes it easier to place your fingers on a string without touching the other strings. Plus, the nylon strings aren't as hard on the fingers while plucking them or creating notes on the neck.
The dreadnought is a large six string guitar and is the style that is typically used for country and other styles of music. A jumbo guitar is a bit larger than a dreadnought and is more curvy and rounded. Some basic guitars are smaller in size. Guitars called 1/2 or 3/4 guitars are designed for small children. Also, some instruments designed for travel and back packers are more compact in size.
A cutaway guitar is one that has part of the body cut away where the neck joins the body so the player can get to the higher frets. These guitars are often equipped to be amplified.
Electric Guitar Body Styles
Blues and Jazz players often play an f hole guitar with an arched top. The "f" hole are two "f" shaped holes in the top of the guitar. These guitars are hollow bodied or semi-hollow bodied and are usually thinner than an acoustic. They are equipped to be amplified.
Electric guitars with solid bodies can have a variety of different shapes. Many have the traditional shape but some look like arrows or squares even circles and many others.
Guitars typically have either six or twelve strings. The most common guitar is a six string. The twelve string duplicates the all of the strings with the lower four pairs being an octave different.
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